Greek Jewellery
Ancient Greek Jewellery


Archaic and Classical periods
Though metalworking developed apace during the Archaic period (600-475 BC) there are but scant examples of the goldsmith's art in Greece at that time (figs 9,10). This dearth of gold jewellery (mainly silver, bronze or iron pieces have survived) can perhaps be explained by the Persian Wars and the fact that the Persians controlled the Middle East, and consequently the amount of gold available. However, jewellery-making continued without break throughout this period, the Greek jewellers turning their attentions to markets abroad, producing Graeco-Scythian, Graeco-Thracian, Graeco-Etruscan and Graeco-Celtic ornaments. So when the Persian Wars were over Greek jewellery-making carried on uninterrupted, creating exquisite works with some notable changes in technique.
Fig 7 Five rosettes from a diadem. They were attached to a leather or cloth band (4 of electrum and the last of gold). From Melos. (Athens, National Archaeological Museum, XP 1177-1181). 7th century BC.

In Classical times (475-330 BC) there was a distinct preference for filigree work rather than granulation, and moreover in combination with enamel (fig. 11), which had reappeared, having been used earlier in Mycenaean goldwork.
Wonderful works, masterpieces of the gold-silvermithing of this period and the next, have come to light in graves at Eretria (Eig.12). Outstanding among the earrings are the spirals with pyramidal, human-head or animal-head finials; boat-shaped (fig. 13), richly decorated with filigree and granulation, that first appeared at this time and endured in various versions until the end of the period; the hoops; the discs and last, the splendid earrings with pendants in the form of a Nike driving a chariot, a Siren, Ganymede carried off by Zeus and so on, hanging from a palmette.
Fig. 8 Gold pendants, "bees". From Thera. (Athens, National Archaeological Museum, XP. 1065). 7th century BC.

Fig. 9 Gold band earrings from Sindos. (Archaeological Museum Thessaloniki, 7975). Late 6th century BC.

Fig. 10 Gold band earrings from Chalkidiki. (Athens, National Archaeological Museum, ST. 175). Last quarter of 6th century BC.



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